How to Get Your Home Ready for Winter

 

There are lots of ways to prepare your home for winter's freezing temperatures. © Eugene Brennan

Winter Is Coming!

This article gives you some common sense tips on keeping your home snug and warm in the winter. It also provides information on how to protect your home and yard from cold, wind, rain, and snow. 

What Is Insulation? 

Insulation is any material that reduces the rate of heat transfer. For instance, the handle on a saucepan is insulated so you don't burn your hand. Metal is good at transferring or conducting heat, so saucepan handles are usually made from wood or plastic to stop heat conduction.

In the context of a building structure, however, insulation is a material that is used to stop heat flowing out through the walls, ceiling and floor. Usually, this is in the form of boards with an insulating foam layer or layers of fleecy material such as fibre glass, rock wool or sheep's wool. If rooms are well insulated, once they're heated, they hold the heat for longer and it doesn't leak out so fast.

How to Keep the House Warm in Winter

There are numerous ways to keep the chill at bay when temperatures drop.

General Tips

• Single-glazed windows should be upgraded to double or triple-glazed units.
• Boilers should be serviced to ensure they are working correctly, the flue is clean, fuel is being burnt thoroughly and they are working at top efficiency. Circulating pumps can become stuck during the summer so this needs to be checked out.
• Chimneys of open fires need to be cleaned to remove soot and creosote deposits or leaves from overhanging trees. Guards should be fitted to the chimney pots to prevent birds setting up residence the following spring.

Insulation Upgrades

• If you can afford it, try to upgrade the insulation in the house. Most heat is lost up through the ceilings into the loft and out through the roof. The space between the joists should be insulated with 4 inches (preferably 8 inches) of fibreglass or rock wool insulation.
• Inner walls can be insulated with rock wool and finished with plasterboard (drywall), or plasterboard backed with foam insulation may be used.
• Cavity walls can be drilled and a foam insulation pumped into the intervening space.
• External insulation is also an option. Multilayer sandwich panels consisting of insulation, a water-permeable membrane and an outer painted finish can be retrofitted to exterior walls. Some contractors render the finished insulation when it is installed.

Exterior House Maintenance

• Gutters and downpipes need to be cleaned to ensure proper drainage from roofs, but wait until the leaves have fallen off all nearby trees or you will have to do the job again later!
• Remove any moss or leaves which accumulated in the valleys between apex roofs.
• Ensure all brackets, nails and screws holding the gutters are secure.
• Check your downpipes are not clogged.
• Drips from overflowing gutters in the winter can form large icicles.
• Check gulleys for blockages from leaves and other debris.

Gate Valve. © Eugene Brennan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Protecting Plumbing From Freezing

• Frozen and burst pipes are a common problem during freezing weather. All pipes which may be exposed to freezing temperatures should be lagged with insulation to prevent freezing. New pipe work should be buried deep enough in the ground to protect it from freezing.
• The cold water tank in the loft should be surrounded with a layer of insulation and the associated pipe work should be lagged. When the floor of the loft is insulated, this makes the loft colder and plumbing is more prone to freezing, so during extremely cold or snowy weather, the loft door should be left open to allow some heat from the rooms below to travel upwards.
• Ensure you know the location of all your gate valves/stop cocks inside and outside and their functions. Write their function on the wall behind them with a thick marker and obviously check they actually turn and aren’t seized. You don’t want to be trying to turn off a seized valve in an emergency when water is coming down through the ceiling!
• You can use pipe heating cable to stop pipes from freezing where pipes are exposed to really cold temperatures. This comes in the form of a tape or cable that you wrap around the pipe. The tape warms slightly when powered up. Newer versions of this tape are self-regulating so temperature doesn't become excessive.

Preparing for Ice and Snow

• Ensure you have adequate supplies of fuel. Oil, gas and electricity suppliers are competitive so shop around to get the best deal.
• Get a good quality snowblower, snow or grain shovel for clearing snow from pavements and driveways. A blade made from aluminium is lighter than a steel blade.
• Clean moss from pavements with a proprietary cleaner or power washer.
• Stock up with salt and grit for defrosting snow and ice on pavements.
• Gutters should have adequate brackets to support snow load as snow starts to thaw and slide down roofs.
• Drain hoses to prevent them freezing and bursting.
• During thunderstorms which can occur during blizzards, unplug all electrical appliances and landline equipment such as modems and phones and use your cell phone for communication.
• Stock up with torches and a camp stove in case there are power failures.
• Get some storage containers which can be used to hold water in case the water supply pipes freeze and the supply is interrupted.

Protecting Garden Plants From Frost

If possible, bring vulnerable plants in containers which could be damaged by frost, inside or into a frost-free shed. Wrap bubble wrap or straw around larger plants or plants in the ground.

Here are a few more ways to protect your plants from frost.

Coping With Electrical Power Outages

• If you have a generator, make sure it works properly, the oil level is ok and it starts up without difficulty. Test it under load to see if copes ok without struggling.
• A freezer will maintain low temperature for several hours if it is not constantly opened.
• A portable gas stove can be used for heating and cooking.
• The backup batteries in your alarm panel and bell/sounder have a limited lifespan so replace them at the required interval.

 

 

 

Homemade Tools - Snow Rake

I put this together from scrap 2 x 1 and 3/8" (10mm) plywood. I used some pieces of waste wire from electric cable (string would be just as good) as ties to stop the board pulling off the end of the 2 x 1.

Snow Shovels by Briggs & Stratton

Think I'd prefer shovelling by hand to warm up, but these snow shovels by Briggs & Stratton could be useful!

Valves for Shutting Off Water in the Home

Just a reminder folks to identify where all your gate valves are for shutting off water in an emergency. Tie a label around them or write the function on the wall behind with a thick marker. Valves can and do seize, so it's good to exercise them at least once a year. You don't want to be running around like a headless chicken when there's a water leak.

How to Reduce or Prevent Condensation in Your Home

Condensation occurs when air hits a cold surface. Air has a limit to the amount of water it can hold in suspension and the amount of water in the air is known as the relative humidity (measured as a percentage). Once air becomes saturated, the relativity humidity has reached 100%. Now as the temperature becomes lower, air can hold less and less water. Condensation occurs when water laden air hits a cold surface, reducing the temperature of the air. This could be glass in windows, cold tiles or metal surfaces. These surfaces are either colder than other surfaces in a room or are of high thermal conductivity so that heat is sucked out of the air. In any case, the air temperature drops to the extent that it can't hold moisture any more and it is deposited on the surface.
To avoid condensation you have several options. Firstly you can vent moisture laden air (e.g from cooking in the kitchen) so that it doesn't end up in rooms. You can do this by using extractor fans or simply opening windows. Portable gas heaters produce lots of water vapour and should be avoided. Another option is to raise the temperature in the room. This makes surfaces warmer so that moisture doesn't condense out. Double or triple glazing also helps because the external surface of inner panes of glass is not in contact with air outside the house. Removing sources of moisture also helps. This includes house plants and damp clothing. Clothes in the washer should be kept there with the door closed until they are transferred to a drier, or hung outside. Drying clothes in rooms or on radiators transfers water to the air where it inevitably condenses out if windows are closed and the room temperature drops. Yet another way of reducing condensation is to use a dehumidifier. This appliance works by circulating air over chilled coils. This causes moisture to drop out of the air (just like it does on your windows) and collect in a reservoir tank.

How Can a Pinhole Leak be Temporarily Fixed Until a More Permanent Repair Can be Done?

Ordinary 2-part epoxy resin also works well for sealing leaks. I have used it successfully for repairing a long crack in the polystyrene spray nozzle of a hose. Make sure you get the quick setting stuff which hardens in about 10 minutes. Try and dry the joint thoroughly, and if possible, rub it with sandpaper to improve adhesion. Let the epoxy stiffen slightly before applying to prevent it spreading out. Heat from a hair drier accelerates the curing process. As far as I know special pipe sealants are epoxy based.
Another alternative (although this is theoretical and I haven't tried it!) is to use a hose clip. Keep one opened out and if you have a leak, wrap it around the pipe, push the end of the clip back into itself and semi-tighten it with a screwdriver. Push a small piece of rubber (bicycle patch, piece of old tire, rubber boot or whatever) under the clip over the hole and tighten. The advantage of this is that the water wouldn't have to be turned off and the area around the hole wouldn't need to be dry but it would probably only work on a hole in the actual pipe itself where the clip would exert sufficient pressure on the patch. You can also buy emergency clamp type fittings which seal over a hole, effecting a temporary repair until the section of pipe can be replaced.
Yet another repair method for cracked brass fittings is to solder them. I had to do this when a fitting on a heating system in my workshop developed a hairline crack during a lengthy period of snow during the winter. (Haven't looked at it for years so hopefully it's still water tight!).
It's wise to know the location of all your stop cocks/gate valves, and write the function of the valve on the wall behind it with a marker, or tie a label around it. In an emergency, you don't want to have to figure out which valve shuts off which pipe. Also valves tend to stick and seize up after years of disuse, so "exercise" them at least once a year by screwing off and back on again. It's actually a good a wise idea to add a redundant valve in case your main water shut-off valve fails. Another option is to fit a quadrant ball valve in addition to the main valve which can be quickly turned off by turning it through 90 degrees (These are the ones commonly encountered on gas and air compressor lines or on oil tanks). Quadrant valves don't normally seize up.